CLIMBING

Climbing

escalada-goierri

There is an area in Goierri where you can do some climbing, in the town of Ataun. There are boulders and crags suitable for this sport.

Nevertheless, climbing is limited to certain locations in order to preserve local fauna and flora. For example, it’s prohibited on the faces of Sastarri and the Dome of Ataun, except in the vicinity of the Aitzarte School of Mountain Climbing. The school is located in the area known as the Dome of Ataun in Aitzarte. Besides the Jentilbaratza face, climbing is done in Aizkoate, Aizkorrandi, Intzartzu and other rock formations (III-7b+). Although you can go climbing throughout the year, it is limited in Aizkorrandi and allowed only from July to November as this area is used by vultures and other protected species in the area for sheltering and mating. In total, there are open 250 routes of all levels of difficulty. The best known are Artzateaitza, Haitzartea, Intzartzu, Jentilbaratza and Lizarrusti.

All of this information has been prepared by local climber Mikel Saez Urabain. Photos and croquis in his blog http://aralarreneskaladak.blogspot.com.es/

Artzateaitza

This small mountain climbing school is Ataun is newer than those in Jentilbaratza and Intzartzu, which are next door. It was created with the concept of sport climbing. We find two different sectors: The most hard-core and difficult is the Korta sector, in which the face’s aesthetics are the most notable, with its perfect gray limestone. It's a shame that the outfitters had to carve a lot of hand- and foot-holds to prepare them properly. It is usually dirty under the climbing area as there are sheep in the area.

The second sector is the forest sector and the Erlaitz sector found there. Here the difficulty of the climbs is more variable: we can find climbs from 6b to 7b. The scenery and the tranquillity of the area for climbing is marvellous. You’ll be greeted by barking dogs as you talk the obligatory route through a farmstead in order to access the area.

ATAUNGO-MAPABasoa (1) (2)

1. 6b+ A-7b
2. 6c
3. 7a
4. 6b+
5. 6b+
6. 7b
7. 7a
8. 7b

Erlaitz (1) (2) (3)

9. 7b
10. 7b
11. 7a+
12. ¿?
13. 7a

Korta (1)

14. Acorazado Potenquin 7c+
15. Basurde free 7b+
16. Waiting for the sun 7c+
17. Deed forest 7b+
18. No es serio este Zeberio 7a+
19. Cool be wather 6c+

Haitzartea

This small climbing school is located in Zaldibia and in a spectacular setting. As a climbing school, is a good place to spend a half-day. It faces south. To get there from Zaldibia, take the road that leads to the Olakosail (Akapulko) picnic area. From here on, we’ll reach the tanks and the road for vehicles ends at this point. Following the road leading to the dam and the water canal. we'll reach Haitzartea within 10 minutes.


We find two sectors which are very different in terms of climbing type. Doing a bit of history, we’ll find old climbing materials in the area as nails, slings, etc. The first impulse to equip this area for sports was Erramun, who opened up three climbs in the upper area. These climbs have needed to be renovated in order to be ascended. Subsequently, Iñigo Zeberio prepared four climbs in the lower face and one in the upper face. Iñigo proposes a grade seven on a climb in this area. It is possible to prepare more in that area.

 

mapa-haitzarteaHaitzartea 1 (1) (2)

Haitzartea 2 (1) (2)

Intzartzu

We’ll find only one climb on this magnificent face. The one ascending the wall is artificial. Mikel Saez Urabain opened it all by himself in 1998. The rock quality is generally good.

We’ll find many holes and hairline cracks. The birds use these holes for nesting. The presence of vultures, crows and similar species is abundant in the area, and so the area is off-limits from December to August. It would be interesting to book the area for Alpine-style climbing as there are nearby sport climbing areas.

 

ATAUNGO-MAPAIntzartzu (bidea) (krokisa)

Jentilbaratza

This school is located in the town of Ataun. It is in an unbeatable location. Proof of this is the remains of an old tower that are at the top. As the story goes, soldiers controlled the arrival of soldiers from Navarre from here. Legend also has it that the bodies of the Gentilak – Basque mythological characters – were buried here.


The history of this school starts in the 80s, when a group of young people from Goierri began to create climbs from below. In the 90s, another group with a more sport-orientated attitude started preparing the climbs from above. That is when the best climbs were prepared. Today, we can find a low grade school.

 

ATAUNGO-MAPAJentilbaratza (1)

1. Destinu petrala 7a+,
2. Holydais in Hawai 7c,
3. Dalton Travesía A1,V,6b+,A2, "frienak"
4. Allien el octavo pasajero 7b+, a- 6b,
5. Matxinsalto 6b+,
6. Kattagorri 6b+,
7. Suicidate cabron 7a+,
8. Bimba mazinga 7b,
9. 7b,
10. 6b+,
11. Mamarroak 6a+,
12. Hussein 7a,
13. Tártaro 6c,6b,
13a. 6a,
14. ke te peto el kakas 6b+,
15. 7a,
16. 6c,
17. U2 6c+,7a,
18. Aizan 6ª+,7a,
18a. Variante Aizan V+, C- 6c,
19. Manolo Rastaman 6a,
20. Sumendi 6a, 6a,
21. Txunpletin 6b, b-7a+
22. Plastikolaris zuzena 6b+, 6b, 6a+,
23. 6c+,
24. Magnesio ez 6c,6b,
25. Popeye 7a,
26. ¿7c?
27. Proiektua
28. 6b+
29. Trespas 6b+
30. Momo 6a, 6a
31. Basajaun 6b, 6b
32. Piro on shai 6c
33. A lo perruno 7ª
34. Seapoto IV+, V
35. Arrakala 6c "frienak", d- 7a

jenti DEFINI

Lizarrusti

This new climbing school offers many good things, such as being able to leave the car nearby in a carpark, a lovely, short approach road, beautiful scenery, comfortable area under the climb and good rock quality. There is still a lot to be prepared in the area.


As seen on the map, leave the car in the Lizarrusti Interpretation Centre carpark and in 15 minutes at the climbing area after hiking a beautiful trail. In this school, you can climb with good temperature on hot summer days.

 

ATAUNGO-MAPAFirst (1) (2) (plano)

1. 6a
2. ¿8a+?
3. ¿8a?
4. 7b
5. 6a

Below (1) (2) (plano)

1. 6c
2. 6a
3. 6a
4. 7a
5. 7b

At the top (1) (2) (3) (plano)

6. A0/6a
7. 7a
8. 7b+
9. ¿?